by Ambo Suno
Dec 16, 2015
Dec 17, 2015
Yeah, B & t - her's an article about this storm of the season, so far. Nice photo in it.
Needless to say, I didn't paddle out Friday. Just a few guys tried and didn't make it because of the line after line of churning waves and strong current towards the pier. One comrad of only about three of us that I surf with often in the dark of the predawn hours is an ex life guard, who has won some paddle speed contests in his prime, tried and couldn't make it. I'm not in that league of surfing though I stretch myself, sort of being ready to, ah, well, ah, sort of die.
The prior Saturday I paddled out during a high high tide about an hour before the sun peaks over the mesa as I usually do and, unable to see the sets much further out, found myself in rather big waves for me. Had a semi-sketchy but ok time getting a few rides. After one nice ride into the cove North of the pier, I paddled back out, meeting a couple of big fellas on the way. I "turtled" the longboard to get under them and the second one tore the board from my arms and ripped my leash off my ankle. I went, what?! where is my mobile life raft. I had a long swim and tumble into shore. Some men on the promenade told me that my board was about a hundred yards up the shoreline on the rocks. I found it perched on the steep cobblestone berm, still whole but with a couple of deep wounds in the bottom that need significant repair. This is the short version of the full AQAL richness of inner and outer considerations and actions for this relative beginner-intermediate surfer. Hah.
Again, much gratitude to life for the unexpected ongoing opportunity, to an extent not taken for granted.
When the surf conditions aren't so daunting, like the last couple of days and more often in the summer, there is the pleasure of non-adrenalized taking in more of the environment. Early morning is a special time and there has been something very beautiful in the last two days about the the combination of cold, a super-crisp sunrise lightshow, fewer stratus in today's clear than yesterday's sky, and colorful reflections of the smooth mildly textured water, pier with flag pole, shoreline city lights, and mountains in the background.
Pardon my indulgent crowing. Much stoke. So little time left.